Church in Senegal

This past weekend was full of much anticipated new experiences around Dakar BUT you'll have to wait until another day to hear about them (there's a teaser for you).

I missed telling you about my first true church experience in Senegal a few weeks ago. This isn't to say that the other services I have attended on Sundays are not "real" or even good, but this Sunday in particular I visited a typical Senegalese service in a suburb of Dakar rather than an American-style service at Dakar Academy, or an international service in the city. The whole morning was an eye-opening adventure.

I was invited to join Phil and Judy Bowler at a church near Thiaroye about 15-20 minutes outside Dakar. We found ourselves waiting alongside the "ranch", a livestock yard along the main highway, to pick up the church's pastor who would navigate us to the home where the church service was held.

From where we were parked we could see the odd animal here or there, but they are mainly kept further back off the road. These animals are generally goats, sheep, and cattle. In addition, this is where people buy hay and other food for their animals. They sell it in large stacks which you can see being stuffed all along the roadside. This also happens to be a hectic hub for Ndiaga Ndiaye (pronounced jug n jiay), local buses. While we waited I saw two older gentlemen flag a taxi, negotiate their price, and at the last minute drag three goats towards the vehicle. They proceeded to load the poor animals into the trunk and drive away as if it were the most normal thing in the world. I'm told that it really isn't uncommon, though you are more likely to see goats tied to the top of vehicles close to Kor*te and Tabask* which are both musl*m celebration days.

Not only did I see goats being wedged into a car trunk, but at the very same time a small kerfuffle broke out behind our truck. We're not exactly sure what triggered the situation, but it appeared that a young guy had done something to disturb the peace on one of the Ndiaga Ndiaye and a crowd was holding him accountable. Rest assured that he wasn't injured, I wouldn't be willing to tell you about anything I wouldn't want my mom to read for fear of her freaking out. It was a very eventful morning...and all this happened before we got to church.

As I mentioned, the church itself was located in a suburb of Dakar. The infrastructure in the city is not the greatest; huge pot holes, lots of exposed rocks, and poor drainage during rainy season. All this is worse the further you travel outside the city. In several areas we drove through mini-lakes. It is particularly dangerous to drive through deep water because you can never be sure if there may be a sink hole, or other hidden surprises beneath the surface.





Though the journey to church was adventurous, it was the service itself that was the highlight of the day. When we arrived they honoured us with front row seats, though I would have loved to observe from the back. It was extremely humbling to worship alongside people who radiate their love for God in spite of the challenges they face on a daily basis. It was ironic that they were honouring me while I have so much to learn from their example.

The church building was actually a small courtyard about the size of my family's two-car garage in Canada. At one point I could hear the neighbours talking in an adjoining courtyard, and a bleating goat. It was a hot, humid day (surprise, surprise)though the courtyard was shaded from the sun, thankfully.

There were about 25 people worshipping together including children. It was a very lively service and I was able to pick up a few of the French lines from songs, but there were also Wolof songs I simply enjoyed listening to. The singing was only accompanied by djembe (hide-covered hand drum shaped like a large goblet).

The prayer time was the most exciting element of the service for me. While it is typical in North American churches for the pastor to lead the time of prayer from the platform on behalf of the congration, or for the congregation to pray quietly in private prayer, in this service everyone prayed aloud simoultaneously in their own language (French, Wolof, and Serer). It was amazing to hear people praising God so passionately.

After the service, as an element of their ministry, the Bowler's sold medication at reduced prices to the church family as well as neighbours. This is a way the Senegalese are able to feel in control of their health needs. Iron supplements for women, vitamins for children, malaria medication, and common anti-inflammatory drugs are among the most popular.

Though I have not been back to a Senegalese church since that Sunday I do anticipate visiting similar churches in the future. I'll keep you posted.